If you have been on a Helicopter trip, an Ice Climbing trek, or an Advanced Trek with MICA guides, you might have noticed that the guides carry giant screws with a bolt on the end. These are ice screws and are used to create a V-thread in the ice, which becomes the anchor for the climb or rope system.

These hollow, threaded screws are usually 7-9 inches long and available in a variety of diameters. They have changed drastically since the 1960s, when they became popular among ice climbers. Today, they are quite light, and many come with a crank to make ice penetration easier. You can read more about the history and physics behind ice screws here! Our guides spend countless hours learning and practicing how to use ice screws to quickly create strong, safe anchors for each trek. We recommend learning directly from a professional, as improper use can be perilous.

The first step in building an anchor is choosing its location and clearing the way. Clear the sun-crusted ice to reach the dense ice beneath. Your guide uses an ice axe for this step. If you watch closely while your guide screws the ice screw into the ice, you’ll see a tube of slushy ice emerge from the other end. This happens because the screw is hollow, and the tube is the core of ice being drilled through.

You might also notice that the ice screws are removed immediately after drilling. Since they are used to make anchors, we take them out right away. This leaves a deep tunnel in the ice for the rope, which is why it’s called a V-thread.

When drilling into the ice with an ice screw, it is important to drill at an angle so the two holes meet in the middle. This takes quite a bit of practice because guides cannot see into the ice very well to locate the screw.  It’s crucial to get the angle right because it affects the strength of the anchor – the goal is always 60°.

The reason V-threads are so useful is that you can build super-strong anchors with minimal gear that last all day, even though the ice is constantly melting and changing.

If you’re curious and have more questions, ask your guide about ice screws and V-threads on your next trip with MICA Guides! They seriously spend hours working on perfecting these skills, and they’ll be thrilled to talk your ear off about it!